🔗 Share this article

When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble shop achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.